Äntligen - en strålande vinbok som går utanpå det mesta i genren.
Vad sägs om:
1. En vinskribent som vet hur man skriver.
2. En dramatisk och fängslande historia.
3. Grundlig research och expertis i ämnet.
4. Vassa och rättframma åsikter.
5. Väl underbyggda argument.
6. Konkret vägvisning till originalen.
Sug på denna pärla från kapitlet "Boom Years and The Loss of Tipicità":
"Phrases such as "inky black", "jammy", and "massive" appeared as glowing praises, along with "awesome", "fruit bomb" and "oaky".
The most influential Italian wine guides followed the cadre of international critics and apparently agreed that these new world wannabes and Bordeaux imitations were far more interesting than their own great Brunellos, Barolos, and Barbarescos. Collectively these wine writers dedicated huge amounts of space loaded with admiration and praise on the country's bottlings made in part or wholly with international grapes that boasted the layers of wood-driven vanilla, coffee, and chocolate flavours these critics adored.
The more an Italian bottling tasted as if it hailed from Napa Valley, the more the critics raved about it. Winemakers across Tuscany, hoping to cash in on the success, were quick to plant French varieties and trade in their botti for all new barriques, which in those early years they used unwisely to say the least. Barriques soon became the the wood of choice for any winemaker who wanted the coveted ninety-plus points from those wine writers who associated pronounced wood sensations with good winemaking, and wide use of the small French barrels automatically spilled over into the traditional denominations. In the case of Sangiovese, the intense chocolate, vanilla, and toast nuances of new oak weighed down the variety's vibrant, cherry-berry, and mineral sensations, while the drying wood tannins imparted by exclusive use of new oak, clashed with the grape's naturally bracing tannins. What most winemakers and wine drinkers now consider as an outworn trend - not to mention overblown and evident winemaking - was conceived as "modern" and innovative on the outset. More importantly, this blustering style virtually guaranteed critical acclaim and success."
"Brunello di Montalcino - Understanding and appreciating one of Italy's greatest wines"
Kerin O'Keefe, University of California Press 2012